The ECS+COHO Interview Series: Alexis Gagnaire, Co-founder, Tanat

Each week leading up to the ECS+COHO Expo 2025, 24-26 November at the JW Marriott in Berlin, World Coffee Portal will present exclusive interviews with some of the influential voices in Europe’s coffee and hospitality industries

This week, Alexis Gagnaire, Co-founder, Q Grader and Green Coffee Buyer at Paris-based specialty coffee roaster and café group, Tanat (formerly Kawa), discusses how the industry can navigate green coffee price volatility, the importance of quality differentiation and how EUDR could negatively impact smaller coffee businesses

What’s your perspective on how the rising cost of green coffee and price volatility is impacting European businesses?

The rising cost of coffee and the volatility of green coffee prices are trends that I believe will continue in the coming years. Coffee is increasingly being recognised as a rare and valuable product, much like wine, and with that recognition comes a greater understanding that quality has a price.

“If excellence is not properly rewarded, many producers may be forced to prioritise volume over craftsmanship”

As climate change, supply chain pressures and growing global demand impact availability, consumers will increasingly appreciate that exceptional coffee is not a commodity, but a craft product that deserves its value. Differentiation and a strong focus on quality will be key for producers and brands to not only justify higher prices but also to navigate and withstand these market fluctuations.

That being said, there’s always a market for exceptional products, and specialty coffee offers the complexity, rarity, and sense of discovery that luxury consumers value across all aspects of their lives.

How does Tanat balance premiumisation with affordability in uncertain economic times?

In uncertain economic times, it’s more crucial than ever to clearly communicate the value of specialty coffee. All actors within the specialty coffee sector must resist the temptation to drive prices down. Today, the gap between commodity and specialty coffee prices is too narrow, which risks discouraging producers from continuing to invest in quality.

If excellence is not properly rewarded, many producers may be forced to prioritise volume over craftsmanship. To secure the future of specialty coffee, we must not only reinforce its value through fair pricing but also invest in educating consumers about what truly sets specialty coffee apart and why it’s worth supporting.

What’s your view on the incoming EUDR directive?

European Union Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), aimed at curbing deforestation linked to commodities such as cocoa, coffee, soy, and palm oil, is raising serious concerns among small-scale producers and exporters. While the regulation is rooted in important environmental goals, its implementation may unintentionally penalise the very communities that contribute the least to deforestation yet stand to lose the most economically.

EUDR requires strict traceability and due diligence from companies importing products into the EU market. Although larger corporations are better equipped to comply with such requirements, many smallholders lack the financial resources, digital infrastructure, and administrative capacity to meet the same standards.

As a result, smaller roasters and the specialty coffee scene might be affected negatively in Europe because they won't have access to certain producers, or they won't be able to source their coffee directly and will have to go through importers.

This could create an uneven playing field. The law, in its current form, may reinforce structural inequalities rather than support sustainable development. Instead of offering support or a transition period, it places the burden of compliance on those with the least ability to adapt.

To truly protect forests while promoting inclusive growth, the EU must consider tailored mechanisms that support smallholders – through funding, capacity building, and flexible implementation strategies. Without such measures, the EUDR risks undermining both its environmental objectives and its commitment to equitable trade.

About TANAT

Founded in 2016, Tanat Coffee (formerly known as Kawa) is a leading light in France’s specialty coffee industry and today has venues in Paris, Lille, Nantes and Marseille. With a focus on exceptional terroirs, unique flavours and painstaking craft, Tanat directly sources coffee from the world’s top producers, harnessing the power of long-term relationships to select unique batches and terroirs. Each coffee is freshly roasted in Paris to provide a destination for those who appreciate the art and science of premium coffee.